Hello everyone, as you know we always try to arrange a second breeding to each pairing, so we have a surrogate mum if something goes wrong, luck favours the prepared as they say, but sometimes that doesn’t work. Both jills have issues, big litters, etc. Sometimes you need to get involved in a much more hands on fashion. I am going to cover the basics and some more specific advice that will hopefully be of use to those who have already got some experience under their belt So number 1. Kits need to be kept warm, especially that first week, especially especially the first few days. They are at their most vulnerable at this time. Ideally mum or a surrogate does this, even if she doesn’t have milk she can keep them warm, but if she can’t we need a heat source. We use a heat mat here, you can buy them for reptiles, you can even get them with variable temperatures now, which is SO much better than trying to balance out layers like we used too. You can use ceramic bulb heaters but really you want to heat the nest not the air, and you must not use light bulb heaters, the bright light can damage the developing eyes. There is snuggle mat heater things, and hand warmers, these do tend to “run out” though so you need to keep an eye, though of course there is electric versions these days. These are very helpful for smaller nests because you can use them to heat half or part of a nest allowing the kits to regulate their temperature moving around. Last is the old faithful hot water bottle, again same deal as the hand warmers etc but they tend to be bulkier. this can make them a good artificial mother, but also harder to climb over when very young.
Kits can get too hot too. It is very easy for kits to die from heat exhaustion, I would go so far as to say more than getting too cold because there’s no chance of reviving them. For this reason you want to enable the kits to get away from the heat if they want. The ideal temperature is warm enough that the kits are quiet when awake, but snuggled together in a bundle for warmth.
Number 2. Kits need toileted. You will need a damp, not wet, piece of tissue, cotton pad, cotton bud, even a cloth, it doesn’t really matter what but you will want lots of it. Gently stroke the genitals and anus, front to back, to stimulate them to toilet. When I have to do this I do it before and after feeding.
Feeding;
You’ll need to start by feeding every 2 hours, at night you can get an extra hour in between feeds for sanity. If you’re supplement feeding you can get away with just a few times a day. You want to feed to appetite, but it can take some coxing to get them started though so don’t be put off by them spitting it out. Our milk recipe is below, I highly advise freezing into ice-cubes and taking out just enough for the day at most and keeping in the fridge until use, though personally I take a cube (maybe 2 or 3) out after feeding, put them in the fridge to defrost then give them a good mix and warm up just before the next feeding. Saves warming the days worth only to put a large amount back in the fridge. This also means I can take out more next time if they’re really eating well. As for How to feed, do yourself a favour, get yourself a miracle nipple. They’re on eBay. The easiest and safest way to hand rear. It is really easy in theory, but there is a lot of skill to it. You want to fill the syringe then put the smallest teat on. Make sure the teat is filled, you don’t want them sucking air. Take note of the start volume on the syringe so you can calculate how much they are eating in a meal, and therefore a day. Dip the tip of the teat in the milk and then the hardest part is getting that teat into the kits mouth. Some kits smell the milk and open up, some kits you need to put the tip to their lips and they open when they feel/taste the milk, some just fight you. You might need to be a bit firm getting the kits mouth open in this case, and for the first few feedings at least it is very helpful to have someone holding and opening the kits mouth whilst someone else gets the teat in there. These kits also tend to be the ones who spit the teat out. It is very frustrating but they do get it after a few feedings. You will need to let the milk down in the syringe as the kit suckles, there is a knack to this, keeping light but constant pressure on the plunger, but it can take a bit of practice. Feel free to practice putting the milk through the teat back into the bowl a few times before you start. Take your time too, you don’t want them to choke.
When you’re done clean everything out and put the syringe and teat in sterilizing solution. Rinse it off again before the next feeding. You don’t need to wash it off between kits in general, but if you are dealing with a mastitis situation it might be wise.
Milk Replacer Recipe
NB all ingredients are full fat. Fat is needed for development.
Ingredients
10oz/284.131ml goats milk
1 egg yolk / 3 quail egg yolks
2 tablespoons mayo
1 cup/236.588ml whole fat yoghurt Optional ingredients
1 teaspoon honey or glucose syrup
½ a dropper of baby vitamins, pet nutrition drops or similar (liver water can be used for a DIY version)
Mix ingredients together until smooth and even consistency. A blander can help. We use a nutribullet to mix the milk with egg yolk, mayo and syrup. This can then be more easily combined with the yoghurt in a large bowl or jug. Tip; if adding the syrup add it with the mayo to prevent it sinking to the bottom of the mix and not being mixed correctly.
this mixture can keep for a few days in the fridge or a month in the freezer. Make sure it is between room and body temperature before feeding.